I've been travelling to India since 2011, indeed you can even look back at my blog posts from the time (excuse the terrible photography). In that time, the country has completely changed, both for better and for worse. A thriving modern 'democracy', India has developed at a startling speed and domestic tourism has increased a hundred-fold (no bad thing). However, that does mean that many of India's once quiet reserves are now packed with people keen to catch a glimpse of a tiger. Trying to get away from the crowds can be tricky, but Nagarhole is a place where things are a little quieter and the wildlife sightings can be enjoyed that much more. Back in April, I was at the helm for Wildlife Worldwide's Nagarhole Photo Safari once again. This week-long trip is perfect for seeing, and photographing Asian elephant, tiger, leopard, Malabar giant squirrels, a plethora of birds and even sloth bear. There is, of course, so much more on offer, but hopefully that whets your appetite. This little slice of paradise really has become one of my favourite parts of India, and it delivers year on year. I know, I know, you want to see the photos. Our first afternoon rewarded us with two tigers, but alas, the photography opportunities were not really there. The next day though, we were treated to exceptional views of sloth bear in the morning and tiger in the afternoon. As you can see, it really didn't take long to get fantastic views, as well as some decent photography of some of our target species. We had hoped to have good encounters with Asiatic wild dog. Despite seeing them in the distance, we never got close enough for worthwhile photography opportunities. For the next couple of days, we focused on some of the smaller and less-photographed species that call the park home. That's not to say that we didn't enjoy views of some of the larger things, but it was these alternative species which provided the more rewarding photography. With such great subjects, the group were rewarded with an amazing portfolio. These 'B-list' species are actually, in my opinion, what makes Nagarhole such a special place to be. So far, we hadn't caught sight of a leopard (something the park is famous for), and so we decided to spend a morning focussing on these elusive cats. We drove along a track, slowly working our way down a hill and scanning every tree along the way. Parking up at the bottom of the hill, our driver Sadiq turned off the engine and we just listened for alarm calls (the best way to find big cats in the dense forests of India). After 10-minutes or so, with no sounds and relaxed chital (spotted deer) all around us, we slowly made our back up the hill. Varun, our guide, suddenly called to stop - there only 25 yards away, sat perfectly in a tree was a gorgeous female leopard. It was a misty morning and the forest had an ethereal feel to it. What an incredible sighting. The photography was just wonderful. Having already had the most magical of weeks, spoiled rotten with incredible sightings, we decided to spend the last full day focussing on the striped contingent once again. I don't think it matters how many tigers you see in the wild, you always want one more. And so we put in the hours and we were rewarded with one of those dreamy encounters - the hard work paid off. If you would like to join me in 2025, there are still a couple of spaces remaining. Please contact Wildlife Worldwide to find out more.
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Back at the start of April I was privileged to be on the guiding team for the Wildlife Worldwide Festival of Wildlife to Tanzania. We took over the delightful Ndutu Safari Lodge for a week and enjoyed some absolutely amazing wildlife encounters and accompanying photography opportunities. I was lucky enough to join the pre-tour extension to the Ngorongoro crater, but to keep this blog as concise as I can, I will focus on the photographic highlights in and around Ndutu. It really kicked off with an incredible attempted lion hunt after the most incredible thunder and hail storm. A lioness walked within yards of my vehicle, before eventually trying to hunt a herd of wildebeest, albeit unsuccessfully. It actually turned out to be a week of lions - we seemed to trip over them in each and every direction we travelled. What was great was that we actually were able to enjoy the lions being relatively active. This isn't typically the case with Africa's largest big cats, and so you have to make the most of these opportunities as and when they present themselves. What makes Ndutu such a fabulous place to base ourselves, was the wildlife that surrounds you while you're in camp. It's not always about the bigger things, sometimes it pays to sit in the comfort of the lodge and wait for the wildlife to come to you. Of course, the smaller things were followed by some amazing male lions ... For me, the absolute highlight of the trip was as we watched the sun set over Lake Ndutu. Giraffe were wading across the shallow water, while greater flamingoes sieved the rich waters through their beaks with the golden hues silhouetting them. Suddenly, someone spotted a cheetah and we were off, only for the cheetah to be immediately overshadowed by another shot. 'Caracal!' - I've been working in the safari industry for 14 years and this was my first every sighting of a caracal - just remarkable. As well as the more obvious mammals, the plethora of birdlife was exceptional and as such the photography was incredible. We timed our arrival perfectly, as the great migration was still in full swing. Although it's very hard to do it justice (photographically speaking) - unless you're in the air - it was a real privilege to see it out on the great plains. Of course, to finish things off, we had to have some more lions. In all seriousness, I was blown away by the numbers of lion here. Having travelled a fair bit in eastern Africa, I think this must be among the highest density of lions around. As I am sure you will agree, it was one heck of a trip. The Festivals are a real celebration of the wildlife, our wonderful clients and the team too. I won't be one of the leaders on the next iteration, but you can find out more about the trip to Falklands & South Georgia here.
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AuthorBret Charman Archives
March 2025
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