Svalbard Photography Expedition - Part 1

I am very lucky to have been to Svalbard several times. What an incredible wilderness and a must for anyone with a passion for rugged landscapes and epic wildlife. For many, the biggest draw of this remote, Arctic archipelago is the polar bear, but there is always so much more to enjoy. 

With that in mind, I was incredibly fortunate to be the photographic leader aboard the MS Stockholm for Wildlife Worldwide’s chartered voyage at the start of May 2024. This remarkable small ship, built in 1953, is a charming and incredibly capable vessel, perfect for an expedition into this icy realm. 

I met up with the group in either Oslo, or Longyearbyen, before we boarded the Stockholm for the most incredible week of photography. We left the pontoon and were soon on our way out of Isfjorden, enjoying our first meal onboard this historic ship. 

We awoke to the most magical conditions in Kongsfjorden and set out on a zodiac cruise to really get a feel for the wonders of the Arctic. We saw several different seabird species as well as eiders and common seals. However, the real highlight was being able to get out of the zodiacs and walk on the fast ice – it was absolutely exhilarating. It was just one of those magical days and an experience that few ever get to enjoy. 

The next day, we arrived on the edge of the vast expanse of sea ice, sat high above the northern coastline of Spitsbergen (it was unusual for it to be so far north so early, but the winds had broken up the fast ice). We spent a whole day enjoying the vastness of this epic frozen world, but despite our best efforts, we could not find our first polar bear. We saw plenty of tracks, but the bears eluded us. 

We ended up following the edge of the ice, making it all the way to the northern coastline of Nordaustlandet - the  second largest island of the Svalbard archipelago. Very few vessels make it up here this early in the season, so this really was a proper expedition. We were likely to be the most northerly, non-military ship on Earth. The conditions were absolutely sublime. 

After such an incredible day and evening, the clients were either heading to bed or relaxing in the lounge, when I spotted something on the horizon. Sat on the bridge with the expedition team, scanning all the while, I spotted a cream shape moving on the edge of an inlet. We went a little closer to see if we could confirm what we hoped it would be. 

"Polar bear!" went up the call from the Expedition Leader. We stirred those that had gone to their bunks, while the others were already getting their survival suits and lifejackets on. It was time to photograph our first bear of the trip. 

Within ten minutes everyone was ready, we'd boarded the zodiacs and were approach the bear as it walked along the shoreline. We ensured that we kept our distance, allowing the bear to do its own thing. It was completely relaxed with our presence after initially stopping to work out what we were. Giving it plenty of space, allowed the bear to wander freely. 

We decided to move a kilometre or so down the coastline and see if the bear appeared a little closer. He certainly did and it was then we realised a mark on his shoulder was a large wound. 

We were treated to some really exceptional views as we always made sure to move ahead, ensuring that we didn't change his behaviour at all. 

As you can see, we were blessed with the most remarkable encounter and the photography was out of this world. I'll never get bored of seeing a polar bear in such a beautiful, wild place. Knowing that we had this bear all to ourselves just made it that little bit more special. 

Keep you eyes peeled on the next instalment of the blog from this trip. Alternatively, if this has whet your appetite and you want to join me in 2025, then visit the Wildlife Worldwide website and book your place.