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Back in October I was delighted to be back in the Pearl of Africa - Uganda. This magical country, so often overlooked by safari goers, really is a superb safari destination and offers a range of incredible wildlife encounters, from gentle giants to big cats and bizarre birds. What more can you ask for? We started off by heading out into Mabamba Swamp, home to the truly weird and wonderful shoebill. This prehistoric bird is losing much of its former habitat as swamps are drained, but here locals run boat safaris in search of this bird and so we set about trying to find it. We couldn't have asked for a better start to our safari.   Ordinarily, our tour combines Kibale, Queen Elizabeth NP & Bwindi, but due to foreign office advice, we would have to bypass QENP, and so, instead we headed up to Murchison Falls NP. This did mean we could add a surprise stop to our trip, one which the guests were unaware - a visit to Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. We were treated to the most incredible encounters (on foot) with a herd of white rhino.  We had two full days to enjoy the delights of Murchison Falls NP, including a couple of boat trips. This meant we were able to enjoy the full breadth of what the park has to offer, including some magnificent birdlife, mammals and the falls themselves. We were even treated to another shoebill stork in the papyrus swamps along the shores of Lake Albert.       After a fabulous couple of days enjoying the varied wildlife of Murchison Falls NP, we headed south-west to Kibale Forest NP for our next target species - chimpanzee. We had two treks searching for and photographing the chimps, while also enjoying a walk around the community-led Bigodi Wetlands. It was a primate bonanza with several species of monkey also seen including Ugandan mangabey, red-tailed monkey, black-and-white colobus, vervet monkey and L'Hoest's monkey. Unsurprisingly, our time with the chimpanzees was the highlight of our time here and the accommodation on offer at Primate Lodge is exceptional.     The final focus, and usually the highlight of any trip to Uganda, was the mountain gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Here we were once again treated to two exceptional gorilla encounters, enjoying exceptionally close views of these gentle giants. I actually didn't capture too many images as I had to lend my camera to one of the group (humidity issues) and sat back to allow my group the best photographic opportunities.  As you can see, we were treated to some particularly close approaches by the gorillas and, as always, it was the most remarkable privilege to be in the company of these great apes. There was one more delight in store for us. We were able to visit the pangolin rescue centre in Buhoma and were treated to the most wonderful encounters with a tree-climbing pangolin about to be released back into the wild.   If you would like to join me in Uganda, you can find out more on the Wildlife Worldwide website. I look forward to see you there.
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Sorry I have been quiet again for the first quarter of the year. It has been a crazy few months and I am only just getting the time to sit back and think about the past 5-6 months. Back in November I was in a state of shock as I was actually able to enjoy leading my first African photo safari in nearly 2 years. Wildlife Worldwide were finally able to run our unique South Luangwa Photo Safari and it was a pleasure to be at the helm for two separate trips. Our first trip was based at one of my regular haunts – Flatdogs Camp – where I had the pleasure of my good friend and guide Bwalya looking after us. We had an exceptional week with Bwalya, although the leopard didn’t quite play ball, and were treated to some excellent encounters with the African wild dogs and countless lions. The second week was based at the delightful Mfuwe Lodge and we had some exquisite sightings of leopard and the wild dogs once more. The rains had started to fall intermittently, but it really didn’t disturb our game drives and huge thanks must go to our excellent guides . One of the great things about South Luangwa is that you never really know what to expect and from one week to the next, you will likely see something completely different. Here is just a taster of what we saw …               If you would like to join me in Zambia's South Luangwa with Wildlife Worldwide, there are still some spaces available. I will be joined by fellow photographer Sean Weekly, and I will be back for more in 2023.
So after an amazing third day in Kenya, filled with fantastic sightings, I really wasn't sure how day 4 could get any better. But don't be alarmed, the 4th day was certainly one to remember! Perhaps the photography opportunities weren't quite of the same standard as the day before (primarily due to some harsh or unhelpful lighting) but once again that is all part of the challenge of a trip like this. I love simple monochrome photography, it is something that has always appealed to me and I like to try my hand at it when I can. Harsh lighting often works really well for this type of photography, providing strong shadows and bright highlights. The hardest thing I always find is getting the composition just right. Anyway today was one of those days where the colour often disappeared from the images, and so I shot a lot of monochrome photos. The morning was quite quiet on the big cat front, a couple of young Lion early on and some Elephants too, including a good sized bull. Don't get me wrong these are all wonderful sightings, and I love every minute in the field but it did not quite have the same wow factor as the day before. We were heading for the northern part of the Mara Triangle for what was meant to be a breathtaking breakfast spot and on the way there wasn't all that much about in the endless sea of grass. We stopped to photograph another Lioness in a truly vast, open landscape which was short but sweet. Then we arrived at our breakfast stop, quite late on in the morning and goodness me, it was one phenomenal view, absolutely astounding! The panoramic shot I took just doesn't and it never could do it justice but I hope it at least gives you an idea of how spectacular this landscape actually is. 
African Elephant (Loxodonta africana)
Lion (Panthera leo)
Lioness (Panthera leo)
Lioness (Panthera leo)
Rufous-naped Lark (Mirafra africana)
The Mara River
Breakfast spot
So after spending an hour or so at what has to be one of the best spots on Earth to sit and eat your breakfast, we primed our big lenses once again for the journey back along the Mara River to our campsite. As we descended the escarpment down into the valley we came across a couple of giraffe making their way between the scattered Acacia trees. It was then that one started to walk over a rise in the rolling landscape, providing an eye level view of a giraffe's head. It again provided something a little different with the heat of the Kenyan sun beating down. As we got further down towards the plains proper, one of our vehicles stopped and we soon noticed that there was a Lioness up a tree. Now this is not something you see everyday in the Mara, the tree climbing Lions of Queen Elizabeth NP in Uganda are well known, but here it is a rare sighting. Actually I was pretty excited and really rather chuffed with it all. Being the picky photographer I am, the lighting wasn't great, but none the less it was one heck of a sighting and it really made it a top morning. It seems every morning in the Mara stands out, and it does!!! It is just one of those places which can provide you with the most memorable of sightings. 
Masai Giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis tippelskirchi)
Lioness up a tree (Panthera leo)
Lioness up a tree (Panthera leo)
Lioness (Panthera leo)
Mara landscape (HDR)
So after another exciting and productive morning it was time to head back to camp and relax. That actually meant it was time to go back to camp and get on the laptop, sort through the vast quantities images from the past few days and have a cold drink. We would be going out again in the afternoon but this time it would be only for a short drive close by to the camp. So, refreshed and with the camera again at the ready, it was time to head out on our last evening drive in the Mara. By this time, the long hot day had turned rather stormy, there were big dark clouds looming overhead, threatening to release a deluge of water, which they eventually did (leading me to almost fall flat on my face as I arrived in camp). The light levels were rather low but we found some subjects to photograph early on. The one that stands out most was a Secretary Bird. This amazing looking bird is perfectly adapted for the plains of the Rift Valley and they are instantly recognisable. It was amazing to watch this bird try and take flight, it certainly isn't an easy process as you can see further below. There were still a few Wildebeest around at this time of year, not in the vast numbers you find during the migration, and we soon found a herd thundering around the plains. This provided a great opportunity to try and get some panning shots ... we also kept the vehicle moving, enabling us to really get a sense of the speed and power that these strong antelope possess. Then to our amazement the herd of Wildebeest startled a Cheetah that had been laying in the grass, it was very nearly trampled! By the time we caught up, the cat was resting again, with the Wildebeest and some Thompson's Gazelle providing a backdrop. 
Secretary Bird (Sagittarius serpentarius)
Western White-bearded Wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus mearnsi)
Cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus)
Cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus)
Thanks again must go to the Wild Eye team for keeping everything running so smoothly on yet another busy day. The wildlife sightings were, once again, superb and the company was excellent too. A great guide again in Joseph, always putting us where wanted to be and two Canon buddies in Wild Eye Ambassador Andrew Aveley and tour participant Richard Sparks providing plenty of entertainment and banter.
After a lovely night catching up on some much needed sleep, it was time to spend our first full day in the Mara. Awoken bright and early with an enthusiastic "Jambo!" (actually it was still dark), the camera gear was already waiting to go and after a spot of Tea (in my case, everyone else had coffee) I was ready too! We climbed aboard the Land Cruiser, our guide Jimmy was ready and raring to go. It wasn't long in fact before my French counterparts gave Jimmy a rather appropriate nickname. For the rest of the trip Jimmy was to be called "Jimmy Loeb", after the French World Rally Champion: Sebastien Loeb. Jimmy is a top quality guide and his driving skills are second to none, and at times pretty nippy, always getting you to the right spot at the right time. So anyway, after only 30 seconds of driving outside of camp, we saw some Impala all alert and looking the same way. A moment later we spotted a lone Lioness making its way across the open grassland, the light was warm but not very bright, it was time to push the new Canon EOS 5D mkIII and see just how well it performed at a higher ISO. An ISO of 2500 was just right and the image showed almost no signs of noise, what a great start to the morning. We only stayed a short while before heading off to find some other species to photograph. We noticed, in the distance, a herd of Wildebeest running in all directions and we quickly realised a lone Hyena was trying its best to hunt. As we arrived on the scene the Hyena went to ground, seemingly worn out by its morning exhertions. 
Lioness (Panthera leo)
Spotted Hyena (Crocuta crocuta)
Plains Zebra (Equus quagga)
After this little foray we heard that there were some Lion not far from where we were, so off we went with our trigger fingers hovering over the shutter release button. It was Canon all round in our Landcruiser with two 60D's and my 5D mkIII plus my 7D, a 70-200mm f2.8, two 100-400mm's and my 300 f/2.8. We had all angles covered as we arrived to find a young male and a young lioness stood in the open. 
Lioness (Panthera leo)
Young male Lion (Panthera leo)
We again moved on quite quickly as we knew the rest of the pride, including some young cubs, were just over the brow of the hill. We got there to find two large females relaxing with two sets of cubs. What a wonderful sight it was and I took far too many photos as always. 
Lion cub (Panthera leo)
Lion cub with mother (Panther leo)
So after a lovely morning with the Lion and the excitement of the Hyena chasing the Wildebeest it was time to head back to camp for a well deserved rest! On our way back we stopped at the Mara river, as you can see below, and came across some Giraffe making their way across the rolling plains. 
Maasai Giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis tippelskirchi)
After a busy morning with some great sightings we thought it would be difficult to beat. And to start with it seemed as if this might be the case. The gloomy clouds were coming in (not always a bad thing for dramatic photos) and after 45 minutes we hadn't seen very much at all, even with "Jimmy Loeb" once again at the wheel. Then we heard that the Leopard was in the tree where the kill had been found the day before. Before we knew it Jimmy's rally skills were put to the test as we raced back before the cat disappeared. After only 10 minutes, we arrived to find the cat was still up the tree but it was no prime photography opportunity. Well unless you like lots of branches in the way, being photographers we are always particularly fussy but you can't help but watch Leopards and we did just that! 
Leopard (Panthera pardus)
After working in Zambia's South Luangwa NP, I have spent quite a bit of time with Leopard and once we had got our record shots I asked Jimmy if we could move back from the other vehicles. The way the tree sloped and the postioning of the lower branches I thought we might strike it lucky if it decided to come down. Then just to make sure we got the shots, an almighty rain storm came in and the Leopard decided it was time to find some better shelter. Our positioning was spot on, thanks must go to Jimmy for really listening to where we wanted to be and helping us get the shots. This is the key difference on a photography tour to a normal safari and one that you really appreciate, this is where Wild Eye really excelled. 
Leopard (Panthera Pardus)
Leopard (Panthera pardus)
After all that excitement, and a complete soaking, we went off to find the Lion family that we saw earlier on in the day. We quickly found them and after a bit of water was removed from the front of my lens, it was time to get some nice Lion portraits in the soft light. Then it was time to head back to camp, dry off and spend another evening in the great company of my fellow tour participants. 
Rather soggy Lion cubs (Panthera leo)
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